The winery
Experience Wachau since 2008
Like almost no other wine-growing region, the Wachau is characterized by its steep terraced vineyards with centuries-old dry stone walls.
They are much more than just a defining feature of the landscape: they are the source of the distinctive character that makes Wachau wines unique worldwide.
These terraces are cultivated by hand, which requires up to five times more work than in vineyards that can be accessed by machine. Many of the historic sites are therefore at acute risk of being abandoned—with far-reaching consequences for the protected landscape of the Wachau region.
From the outset, my goal was to acquire particularly exposed terraced sites with predominantly old vines, to recultivate them, and to permanently protect them from being cleared. Even though this is only possible through consistent manual labor without the use of machines, I am convinced that the resulting wines are so unique, full of character, and expressive that the enormous effort involved is justified.
Most of the vines are between 30 and 75 years old. Drinkability and storability are at the heart of all decisions. The highest priority is given to processing only healthy grapes without botrytis. This results in wines of great finesse and elegance, characterized by delicate minerality, clarity, and tension. Especially our wines from the high-altitude vineyards in Spitzer Graben, the coolest valley in the far west of the Wachau with its harsh climate, produce wines that are far from opulent.
We want to make this "Wachau" experience tangible in all our wines.
Since the winery was founded (August 2008), grape production in all vineyards has been subject to organic control by "Lacon."
The vineyards
Mostly grown on primary rock, the Grüner Veltliners from the warmest, easternmost part of the Wachau show the many small differences in soil, expanse and altitude every year. The potential top qualities of the vintages promise a classic, authentic "Wachau", each representing the typical vintage characteristics of the region.
On the terraced slopes of the "Hochrain" in Wösendorf my Grüner Veltliner stands on deep loess. The wines here develop nutty and spicy with yellow-fruity aromas. Compared to the Veltliners from the primary rock, the "Hochrain" is a precise example of how much the soil influences the character of the wine.
Situated northwest above Weissenkirchen, the vineyard in this location is planted with the oldest of all my vines (over 70 years old). They produce small grapes with small berries and a naturally low yield. Instead of the peppery spiciness typical of Grüner Veltliner, the berries, like the wine, have a yellow-fruity taste of melon and raisins.
Although the "Bruck" site is considered the best and warmest in Viessling, it is nevertheless one of the coolest, because it is also the highest in the Wachau. Viessling can be seen as a counterpoint to the much warmer terroir of the east of the Wachau. My Rieslings here develop a unique fruitiness with spicy notes and a delicate minerality.
The vineyard is cultivated entirely by hand without a tractor.
Brandstatt is my recultivation project in the Spitzer Graben, the coolest area of the Wachau, at about 450 m above sea level. The originally neglected mica slate vineyard was gradually replanted with Riesling after the walls were repaired. My aim is to press an uncompromising wine on this original terraced vineyard, in which the terroir and an old winemaking tradition are more important than the grape variety. This may involve maceration as well as long ageing in local acacia barrels.
The Buschenberg site lies to the east of the Klaus vineyard and is relatively unknown, as many winegrowers cultivate small plots and hardly any single-vineyard wines have been bottled to date. Large primary rock Riesling soils with low growth potential produce reductive, mineral Riesling with a high ageing potential.
The vines were planted in 1979 and are not suitable for tractors - purely manual work in the vineyard.
Impressions
